Argentina by region: where to go
Buenos Aires
The capital is a cosmopolitan city, often referred to as the Paris of South America, with fine hotels, shops, and colonial buildings. On the banks of the River Plate estuary, the city is laid out on a grid system, with some spectacularly wide avenues. Different parts of the city have quite distinct flavours, from La Boca (where some of the oldest buildings are to be found, many brightly painted), Calle Florida for shopping, to the Plaza de Mayo where the 'Pink Palace', the president's residence, cathedral, and town hall are located. The Argentines eat a lot of meat and there are some excellent restaurants specialising in asados, or grills. There are many theatres, tango houses, museums, and a beautiful Opera House.
The Tigre Delta
The Tigre Delta covers 21,000 square kilometres, and is made up of over 5000 waterways. The islands are inhabited by 3,000 people working mainly to supply the pulp, paper and plywood industries. Many international and local investors now own houses all along the shores, with private boats and boat houses - most of them second homes which they visit at the weekends. By boarding one of the many water taxis you can cruise along the waterways and on a full day excursion would have lunch on the delta.
The Pampas
The flat and fertile plains that surround Buenos Aires and reach as far south as Bahia Blanca are known as the pampas, and were a major source of Argentina’s wealth during the agricultural boom at the beginning of the 20th century. The gaucho tradition was born here and in Entre Rios, and is typified by towns like San Antonio de Areco, with its museums, silversmiths, and leather craft, all of which serve to keep alive the traditions of the gaucho culture. Another lasting legacy of the boom years is the number of extravagantly built estancias in a variety of styles from French chateau to English country house, depending on the origin of the owners.
Córdoba
The city of Córdoba is an hour's flight west of Buenos Aires, and stretching north from here are the Sierras de Córdoba, a mountain outcrop dissected in several places by fertile valleys. Originally popular as an escape from the summer heat of Buenos Aires, today there are several estancias offering excellent riding and walking.
The Iberá Marshlands
Iberá is a native word meaning 'brilliant waters', wetlands that cover over a million hectares and are fed by the river Corrientes and its tributaries, which eventually drain into the river Paraná. The water levels vary throughout the year, and the area is very rich in wildlife, particularly birds (over 350 species). The main gateways are Posadas, Corrientes or Mercedes, and there are several estancias offering comfortable accommodation, a few of which specialise in fishing (the main attraction is the golden dorado).
Misiones
Misiones province, which takes its name from the missions built by the Jesuits in the 17th century, is widely forested and is the area where most of the tea-like drink known as mate is grown. The best preserved of the missions is San Ignacio Mini, about 250km from Iguazú, but there are several others nearby which emerge from the luxuriant vegetation.
Iguassu Falls
On the border with Brazil and Paraguay are the fabulous Iguassu Falls, one of the most overwhelming sights in the world. The Argentine side has a well designed network of walkways which enables visitors to explore them from all angles, as well as boat trips for close up views.
The Northwest
Salta
The region around Salta and Jujuy was the first area to be colonised by the Spanish. Apart from the colonial architecture there are also many pre-Hispanic ruins from the Inca period. Salta itself has many fine churches and is a centre for the sugar cane industry. The Tren a las Nubes, or Train to the Clouds, normally runs on Saturdays from April to November, and reaches an altitude of 3,952 metres (there are also road routes that visit the same areas). This is one of South America's most spectacular journeys both from a scenic and engineering point of view.
North of Salta: Jujuy and Humahuaca
Heading north from Salta one climbs through the arid Quebrada de Humahuaca valley, where lovely colours are visible in the rocks.
Altiplano
At over 4,000 meters there is some stunning scenery in this area. The large salt plains, never ending dirt tracks, beautifully coloured mountains and the snow-capped peaks of volcanoes make this a fascinating area to visit. The small towns you are likley to stay or pass through are San Antonio de los Cobres, Susques and Tolar Grande where the locals are friendly and very welcoming. Distances are large in the desert meaning long days, but the scenery more than makes up for this. A local guide is essential or you may never find your way home!
South of Salta: Cachi and Cafayate
South of Salta is the Quebrada de Cafayate, with beautiful landscapes and more coloured rock formations. Around Cafayate itself there are many vineyards. On the smaller side roads (mainly dirt) are many pretty colonial villages like Cachi and Molinos.
The Gran Chaco
Close to the border with Paraguay, Formosa together with province of Chaco to the south form part of the Gran Chaco, a huge lowland area that stretches across Paraguay and south-east Bolivia extending as far as Mato Grosso in Brazil. A huge, flat landscape that stretches across arid, dry forest and open savanna to marshlands and palm tree forests in the south, the area is inhospitable, undeveloped and receives some of the highest temperatures on the continent. However, the wildlife is unique and with an excellent chance of observing species such as marsh deer, peccaries, maned wolves, howler monkeys and jabiru stork to name a few, the Chaco is becoming increasingly popular with birders and wildlife enthusiasts alike.
Mendoza
Mendoza, on the eastern flank of the Andes, is best known for its vineyards which now produce over 70% of Argentina's wines. The capital has tree-lined avenues, while in the surrounding countryside several of the wineries now offer accommodation to visitors. The overland route to Chile crosses a high pass and takes you through truly spectacular scenery.
Patagonia
Calafate
Calafate is the southern gateway to Los Glaciares National Park, 50km away. The icy blue Perito Moreno glacier extends into a lake over a width of about 5km, and large chunks regularly fall off into the water with a loud roar.
Chalten
The rapidly growing village of El Chaltén, lies 5 hours north of Calafate along a road that offers wonderful views of Lago Argentino, Lago Viedma and the towering Fitzroy peaks. The village is nestled in a deep valley with a mass of jagged peaks looming in the distance. This is an excellent area for walking.
Valdés Peninsula
The peninsula, north of Trelew, is known for whale-watching (in the bay near Puerto Madryn), and also penguins, sea lions and elephant seals. It is also one of the few places where you have a good chance of seeing the Patagonian hare, especially if you stay at one of the estancias on the peninsula itself. The best times of year are July to October for Right whales, March and April for killer whales, and October to April for other animals.
The Lake District
Neuquen
Until recently there was little tourism in this wine producing region, 410km north of Bariloche but a new luxury hotel will bring increased interest to the area.
San Martin de los Andes
North from Bariloche are the picturesque towns of Junín and San Martín de los Andes and the Lanín National Park. There are also several estancias offering accommodation.
Bariloche
San Carlos de Bariloche, in the centre of the Lake District, has changed from a sleepy sheep town to a bustling and chic resort in the last 20 years. Nestled on the edge of lake Nahuel Huapi it is surrounded by snow-capped mountains, quick-flowing streams and deep blue lakes, reminiscent of the Swiss Alps, but on a grander scale. In winter it is a trendy ski resort, and in the summer an ideal place to go walking, fishing, rafting, climbing and riding. There are several good hotels, many overlooking the lake. A hire car is a very convenient way to explore the area. From Bariloche it is possible to cross over to Chile, either through the lakes by boat and bus, or by road. The famous lake crossing can be done in a day from September to March, otherwise an overnight stop is made at Peulla in Chile. On a clear day the views of the Osorno and Puntiagudo volcanoes are spectacular.
Esquel
Travelling south from Bariloche the Los Alerces National Park, near the small town of Esquel, is beautifully set among a string of lakes in an area little visited by foreigners. There are lovely walks, excellent fishing, and you can ride on the Old Patagonian Express (a narrow gauge steam train).
Tierra del Fuego
Tierra del Fuego is divided between Chile and Argentina.
Rio Grande
North of the Andes (which run east-west at this point) is Rio Grande, at the mouth of the Rio Grande river, renowned world-wide for the quality and size of its sea trout.
Ushuaia
Ushuaia is the world’s most southerly city, used as a gateway for cruises to Antarctica and around Cape Horn. The Beagle Channel, Estancia Harberton (founded by an English missionary) and the Lapataia National Park make interesting side trips.
